Ecosystem 04 of 05
A 200-mile escarpment carrying the largest ponderosa pine forest on Earth.
The Rim is the southern edge of the Colorado Plateau, a 200-mile cliff, up to 2,000 feet tall, that splits Arizona in half. Drive up it from the desert and the temperature drops 20 to 25 degrees in under an hour. On top sits an unbroken belt of ponderosa pine, the largest continuous stand of it anywhere in the world, laced with cold creeks and small lakes.
Field note
Ponderosa bark smells of butterscotch and vanilla in the sun, and this is one of the largest continuous ponderosa pine forests on Earth.
Plant life
Thick jigsaw-plate bark lets a mature tree survive a low-intensity fire that clears everything around it.
Grows in clonal thickets from a shared root system, and its acorns feed nearly everything in the forest.
Bursts with pink pea-like flowers in early summer and is often the first shrub to colonize a burn scar.
Fixes nitrogen into thin volcanic soil, quietly fertilizing the meadow it is growing in.
Wildlife
Bulls bugle through September and October. A mature bull can weigh 700 pounds, give them a very wide berth in rut.
A tassel-eared squirrel that lives almost entirely on ponderosa, eating inner bark in winter when nothing else is left.
Merriam’s turkeys roost in the tallest pines at night and can fly 55 mph in a short burst.
Arizona’s only remaining bear species. It gorges on acorns and berries in fall, store food properly when camping.
Where to go
Tonto Natural Bridge State ParkThe largest natural travertine bridge in the world, 183 feet tall. Short, steep trails lead down under it.Arizona State Parks1 hr 45 min northeastPer-person day-use fee
Woods Canyon LakeA cool pine-rimmed lake at 7,500 feet with an easy shoreline loop, trout stocking, and osprey overhead.Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest2 hr 30 min northeastDay-use parking fee
Fossil CreekA spring-fed travertine creek running about 72°F year-round. Permits are limited and sell out well in advance.Coconino National Forest2 hr 15 min northPermit required Apr 1 – Oct 1
Rim Lakes Recreation AreaA cluster of small lakes and campgrounds right along the Rim, with the Rim Lakes Vista Trail on the cliff edge.Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest2 hr 30 min northeastVaries by siteTrails to hike
Rim Lakes Vista TrailEasyRuns flat along the very lip of the Rim, with a long drop into forest below. The best view-per-effort hike in Arizona.4.2 mi loop200 ft gainApache-Sitgreaves National Forest
Pine Creek TrailModerateDescends to the creek and back under the travertine arch. Slick, wet rock in the tunnel, hands required.1.4 mi loop305 ft gainTonto Natural Bridge State Park
Woods Canyon Lake LoopEasyCircles the lake in deep shade at 7,500 feet. Bald eagles winter here and osprey fish it all summer.5.3 mi loop400 ft gainApache-Sitgreaves National Forest
Horton Creek TrailModerateFollows a cascading creek up an old road grade to Horton Spring, gushing straight out of the hillside at the top.7 mi round trip1,200 ft gainTonto National Forest
West Clear Creek TrailModerateA deep, narrow canyon with repeated wades through cold water. Turn around anywhere, the whole route is the reward.9 mi round trip800 ft gainCoconino National ForestSeason by season
April – May
Snow melting off, forest roads still soft.
June – August
Where Phoenix goes to breathe.
September – October
The Rim’s finest season.
November – March
Snow country. Plan around closures.
Expanded facts